Don't replace the whole waterline if you don't have to. If a handful of tiles are loose, the grout is failing in spots, or hard-water scale is taking over — spot repair can buy years before a full replacement.
Tile repair is the smaller-scope service: fixing what's failing without redoing the whole waterline. Common items include rebedding popped tiles, regrouting failing seams, descaling hard-water buildup, replacing a few damaged tiles, and stabilizing the surrounding mortar. It's the right call when your tile is mostly intact and the cause of failure is localized.
Repair if: fewer than ~10–15% of tiles are loose, grout failure is in spot areas not running edge-to-edge, hard-water scale hasn't permanently pitted the tile, and the substrate underneath is still sound. Replace if: tiles are widely loose, grout is failing in continuous sections, multiple tiles have cracked, or your pool's already drained for a resurface (bundle pricing makes full replacement cheaper).
Inspection and tap test, removal of damaged tile and mortar, substrate prep, rebedding with the original or matching tile, regrouting affected areas, descaling and sealing waterline. Pool typically drained only partially — to below the waterline — for the work.

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Spot tile repairs typically run $250–$800. Regrouting a problem section: $400–$1,500. Bead-blasting hard-water scale across the waterline: $500–$1,500. Larger combined repairs can reach $2,500 — beyond that, full tile replacement is usually the better economic call.
Replacing a single dropped tile above the waterline is sometimes DIY-friendly if you have a matching spare. Anything below the waterline, anything involving grout removal, or anything where the substrate is in question should be done by a pro — the wrong mortar or rushed cure leads to repeat failure within a season.
Properly-done spot repairs last 3–10 years. The longevity depends on what caused the original failure: if it was a one-time impact event, the repair lasts as long as the surrounding tile. If it was substrate movement or chronic hard-water scaling, expect to revisit it sooner.
For most waterline repairs, only a partial drain to ~12 inches below the lowest tile. Full pool drains are usually unnecessary unless you're addressing structural cracks behind the tile. Less drain = less cost and faster turnaround.
Three usual suspects in St. George: the expansion joint between the deck and pool has failed (deck movement breaks the tile bond), hard-water scale is wedging between tile and mortar, or the original mortar mix wasn't pool-grade. A good contractor diagnoses the cause before quoting.
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